When I left nearly 25 years ago, the Troubles were at their height The death toll was running into thousands annually. You could say its an educational visit.” But educating himself on the causes of the dispute has been more problematic than he expected. “People are warm and friendly, but they will talk to you about anything but the Troubles.”Whatever their reasons for visiting, the arrival of this new breed of tourist has created a “boomlet” for those only too happy to cater for their curiosity. Walter and his fellow taximen (cabbie is not a word in common usage here) each organise two or three trips a day in the summer, and even the public transport company runs a “Living History” tour twice a week.Hostels, guesthouses and hotels have opened their doors to cater for this growing market. Places such as Arnie’s Backpackers, an unassuming terraced house in a quiet university area, are full all year round. The hostel, which can provide beds for up to 21 travellers at pounds 7.50 a head, is popular for its relaxed atmosphere.For someone who was born and brought up in this once-dour Victorian city, its popularity as a holiday destination has been a puzzle. Alex, a teacher from Cheltenham and a keen racegoer, was spurred to visit Belfast after the Grand National was cancelled because of a bomb scare.

“I felt it was about time British people like me made an effort to understand what was going on. Belfast has such a low crime rate (apart from the political variety) that it baffles sociologists – even if, like Alex Lesniowski, you are determined to ask awkward questions. “But there are more armed police in downtown LA than there are here,” confesses Howard, a trifle disappointed.In fact, you would have to work extremely hard to put yourself in danger. “One group had barely checked in before they all rushed off to catch the Orange parades,” says manager Joanne Dixon. “They didn’t seem at all worried.”Others, like Howard and Jean Kelly, a retired couple from Los Angeles, visit Northern Ireland to trace their Irish forebears – and can’t resist a chance to sneak a look at the violent side of their ancestral past. When they arrived to find the city streets deserted, they feared the worst.

“Then somebody told us it was a bank holiday and we realised we hadn’t walked into a curfew,” says Liza.Nor is it just young people turning up. At the Holiday Inn in the city centre, coachloads of older tourists arrive each summer. “Everyone at home says it’s so scary but I was intrigued by the story of the place,” says Megan. “I’ve been all over Europe, but this is just something a bit different.” Canadians Liza Ikiriko and Aaron Jacobs were nervous about their trip to the troubled capital.